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Thread: Credit REPORT help...

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    Default Credit REPORT help...

    I have paid some things off (either settled, or paid in full) and even though my crddit score has gone up 26 points, those items are still listed as Potentially Negative, Closed....How do I change that?

    Also, some things that I have NOT paid, are listed as Potentially Negative,Closed... but I did NOT pay them yet, or settle. I JUST now contacted one collector and she told me that since it is closed, that it is not collectible... (this is for $1,200) and she said I can pay in full two payments of $500.00 to DELETE from my report, and by DELETE she said they would report it as an ERROR to the bureaus or something like that. OR I could settle for $850.00 to show that it is SATISFIED. I asked her "Just a minute ago you said it is not collectible, and now you said I can pay and DELETE OR SATISFY the account? She said that I will receive a letter in the mail and it will be reported. She also mentioned that the call was recorded. I took her ext. and name. So am I making a mistake to pay this account?

    Im REALLY working to improve my credit,and have been doing good on improving it, and not letting people inquire. I just dont know if Im being scammed, or if I should not even bother paying some people. I wish there was someone who could look at my report for me and tell me what to do..this is frustrating :/ I looked at the customer assistance numbers on the Experian website, and none of them refer to general questions such as this. ALSO, I have to ask...

    Navy Federal was a loan I didnt pay, so it was turned to collections. Well I settled with collections, and it actually says PAID BY SETTLEMENT under the collections item...but shows POTENTIALLY NEGATIVE,CLOSED under Navy Fed. So thats kinda unfair, isnt it?
    Thanks guys...

    PS.... When I go for car loans or what not, are they looking closely at the actual items? Or just the score?

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Anybody?

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by AudrinaN View Post
    and she said I can pay in full two payments of $500.00 to DELETE from my report, and by DELETE she said they would report it as an ERROR to the bureaus or something like that. OR I could settle for $850.00 to show that it is SATISFIED. I asked her "Just a minute ago you said it is not collectible, and now you said I can pay and DELETE OR SATISFY the account? She said that I will receive a letter in the mail and it will be reported
    It sounds like you are attempting to negotiate a "pay for delete." One of the reasons I put "said" in bold is because since you are dealing with a collection agency, they can say and promise anything they want, but they will in no way uphold that unless you get it in writing first. If they say they will send you a letter after you pay, then don't expect it to come. Make sure to get their written agreement to these terms first.

    Here is one example of a "pay for delete" letter.

    http://www.creditmagic.org/repair/pay-for-delete.html

    You might also want to investigate doing a "debt validation" first. You can find some information about this on the site as well.
    Hope this helps.

    ETA: Just for the sake of clarification, are you dealing with the original creditor still? Or is this an actual "collection agency" that you spoke to?
    Quote Originally Posted by markx View Post
    I'd have to have a "4 simease twin strippers gave me head and then lite themselves on fire" story to blow anybody's mind here.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by Christany View Post
    It sounds like you are attempting to negotiate a "pay for delete." One of the reasons I put "said" in bold is because since you are dealing with a collection agency, they can say and promise anything they want, but they will in no way uphold that unless you get it in writing first. If they say they will send you a letter after you pay, then don't expect it to come. Make sure to get their written agreement to these terms first.

    Here is one example of a "pay for delete" letter.



    You might also want to investigate doing a "debt validation" first. You can find some information about this on the site as well.
    Hope this helps.

    ETA: Just for the sake of clarification, are you dealing with the original creditor still? Or is this an actual "collection agency" that you spoke to?


    Thats what my bf said..to get it in writing first.Smart move, I will request that in writing tomorrow.
    Thank you for that site. x
    Also, this is the actual collection agency... not the original creditor.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Well I settled with collections, and it actually says PAID BY SETTLEMENT under the collections item...but shows POTENTIALLY NEGATIVE,CLOSED under Navy Fed. So thats kinda unfair, isnt it?
    Well, from the point of view of a potential future lender, people who have settled past debts for amounts less than they originally agreed to pay DID cause past lenders to experience losses ( relatively speaking at least ). This is the reason for the potentially negative listing. Or put another way, negotiated settlements are the economic equivalent of a legal 'plea bargain' - where accepting the reduced penalties of a 'plea bargain' does not mean the defendant was innocent.


    When I go for car loans or what not, are they looking closely at the actual items? Or just the score?
    According to my little brother who operates a US car dealership, right now all 'mainstream' potential auto lenders are looking at two things ... the verifiable income level of the would-be borrower, and the overall credit score of the would-be borrower. New banking regulations / policy more or less dictate that approval of a new auto loan requires the would-be borrower's debt to income ratio to be below a certain threshold after a new auto loan is written, and banking policy also sets a 'cutoff' level for credit score below which the potential lender won't even accept loan applications.

    Obviously there are also a number of 'subprime' auto lenders who don't adhere to the same policies, but their higher interest rates reflect the increased risk of borrower default.


    Also, this is the actual collection agency... not the original creditor.
    I would repeat Cristany's warning to 'get it in writing' before you make payment. The potential stumbling block in this case is that the collection agency may not have legal standing to 'speak' on behalf of the original creditor re 'erasing' the original creditor's negative reporting.
    Last edited by Melonie; 10-27-2010 at 03:11 AM.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    As far as improving your credit score with old debts in collection or long charged off, but still on the report is to challenge them. Also, with the sale of debts, the same debt can show up more than once on your credit report, so challenge anything that looks like a duplicate.

    HTH
    Z

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    ^^^ agreed that challenging credit report listings has no potential downside and a whole lot of potential upside. Basically, the credit reporting agency must prove that all listed debts are valid. If the original 'paperwork' has fallen through the proverbial cracks when original creditors turned over debts to collection agencies, they have no choice but to delete the entry. Zofia is also correct about duplicate entries, where the original creditor's report of a debt and a collection agency's report of the same debt appear as two separate listings under two different company names.

    In regard to applying for a car loan, where independent contractor dancers are concerned the credit score may now actually be of secondary importance to 'verifiable' income. For potential lenders who are 'sticklers', about the only thing they will accept from a self-employed person in the way of 'verifiable' proof of income is past years tax returns. Some of the less nitpicky lenders will also accept bank statements showing regular deposits to a 'business' account etc. but this is becoming more problematic.

    The issue of course is that after the 'subprime' loan debacle potential lenders are now required ( by regulation or company policy ) to investigate whether a loan applicant's official income level is sufficient to cover the applied for loan payments over the life of the loan. Where a 'prime' 5 year car loan is concerned, self-employed persons have 'one strike against them' since, as a group, their income levels are not very predictable / repeatable over a 5 year period ( i.e. not eligible for unemployment or disability ... one problem equals no income). Being a self-employed person in the Adult Entertainment industry racks up a 'second strike', since lenders know all too well that, as a group, Adult businesses tend to have a poor track record in regard to business 'longevity', are very susceptible to suffering major negative financial impacts as the result of new legislation, are comparatively mobile thus difficult to track down for collections etc. Having a 'less than pristine' credit score usually provides the 'third strike' !

    Obviously there are also 'subprime' auto lenders who will be far less 'nitpicky' in regard to the source of the would-be borrower's income, the hard evidence verification of the would-be borrower's income ( i.e. tax returns and dedicated business bank account), the would-be borrower's credit score etc. Of course, these 'subprime' auto lenders also price in a much higher probability of future loan losses by charging all 'subprime' auto loan applicants a significantly higher interest rate.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Thanks guys.
    So, in my case where the original creditor reported the debt (Navy Federal) and also the collections agency (which I settled with) reported. So I have two marks on my report, making my list longer and ugly. Is that considered a duplicate? And which one do I dispute to be removed? Thanks again ladies. x

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Oh, also....
    There is an account that I don't think I opened back in 2002, I would have been a junior in high school then. t is with J B Robinson Jewelers.... It is current and open, and says never late. Ok AWESOME whoever opened that (or was it me and i dont remember???) was good to my credit. I read that keeping that there is good. BUT, it is revolving credit, and the more of those I have...the less my score is. So close that account??

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    ^^^ yes the two entries for the same debt are actually duplicate. However, you will have to point that fact out to the credit reporting agencies ... who will hopefully delete one of the entries without much protest.

    Yes every 'available' open line of credit not only potentially lowers your credit score, but also affects the worst case scenario debt to income ratio calculation performed by other prospective lenders. In your particular case, if the Jeweler 'credit card' account has say a $1000 available credit line, a 'prime' auto lender could factor in the possibility that you might max out that Jeweler credit line at any time and thus face an additional $50 ( or whatever ) monthly payment to the Jeweler against your total amount of 'verifiable' income. If that additional $50 a month payment to the Jeweler ( that doesn't really exist ) raises your combined debt to 'verifiable' income ratio above the loan approval threshold, the auto loan officer has no choice but to say no to your application !

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by AudrinaN View Post
    Anybody?
    I currently work as negotiator for the debt settlement company and have to confirm Melonie, Zofia and Christany's concerns and suggestions. First, collection agencies can lie. A lot. I always demand negotiated settlement letter for my clients in writing and further(very important!) to persuade collectors to state that my client "settled in full" versus "settled ". It's a big difference since future creditors will view you as potentially trustworthy rather than PARTIALLY SETTLED DEBTOR. It certainly affects your credit score more severely and for longer period of time than "settled in full" status.
    And yes, if they bug you about any debt, you should send them "Validation of Debt letter" which will buy you time since it obligates your creditors to do their lengthy homework that you actually spent this money, open this account, when, etc.
    Finally, never forget that collection agency is a third party debt collectors and they buy you debt from original creditors for pennies on a dollar. Based on amount you owe, they should not sue you, so get creative and tell them that you would love to settle your debt, but have a tough financial hardship...offer them 10%.
    You'll be shocked how flexible agency can get. A few phone calls later, you might get a different Collector Rep and they may offer to settle for 20-30% max. I do it all the time, "patience is a virtue"
    Good luck! And when it comes to unsecured debt(i am not talking about student loans, military cards, cars, home equity), try never owe any money to Discover, Chase or Amex. Those are the most vicious and instead of collection agencies most of the time will hire lawfirms and can sue over $700!

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    ..."settled in full" versus "settled "
    Better yet obviously"paid in full". But if you have a chance , try to do "pay for delete". Depending on how old and what type of debt it is, you can offer less than full balance and still get a delete.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Thank you ladies. ^
    ::looks in phone book for my local negotiator::

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by AudrinaN View Post
    I have paid some things off (either settled, or paid in full) and even though my crddit score has gone up 26 points, those items are still listed as Potentially Negative, Closed....How do I change that??


    Also, some things that I have NOT paid, are listed as Potentially Negative,Closed... but I did NOT pay them yet, or settle. I JUST now contacted one collector and she told me that since it is closed, that it is not collectible... (this is for $1,200) and she said I can pay in full two payments of $500.00 to DELETE from my report, and by DELETE she said they would report it as an ERROR to the bureaus or something like that. OR I could settle for $850.00 to show that it is SATISFIED. I asked her "Just a minute ago you said it is not collectible, and now you said I can pay and DELETE OR SATISFY the account? She said that I will receive a letter in the mail and it will be reported. She also mentioned that the call was recorded. I took her ext. and name. So am I making a mistake to pay this account?

    Im REALLY working to improve my credit,and have been doing good on improving it, and not letting people inquire. I just dont know if Im being scammed, or if I should not even bother paying some people. I wish there was someone who could look at my report for me and tell me what to do..this is frustrating :/ I looked at the customer assistance numbers on the Experian website, and none of them refer to general questions such as this. ALSO, I have to ask...

    Navy Federal was a loan I didnt pay, so it was turned to collections. Well I settled with collections, and it actually says PAID BY SETTLEMENT under the collections item...but shows POTENTIALLY NEGATIVE,CLOSED under Navy Fed. So thats kinda unfair, isnt it?
    Thanks guys...

    PS.... When I go for car loans or what not, are they looking closely at the actual items? Or just the score?
    Settled debt is always a negative on credit reports, as said above.

    How old are the other collections? If the collection is older then 7 to 10 years you can dispute it with the credit reporting agencies to possibly get it removed.

    What kind of loan was Navy Federal?

    Even though the loan and collection seem like a duplicate it isnt in the eyes or reporting agency. The score is calculated and it is coded on the report so that both items are shown as connected.

    The easiest way to start disputes is by going to www.annualcreditreport.com.
    It is a goverment sponsered website that will allow you to pull your credit report. After it is pulled it will list the negative things and ask if you want to dispute them.

    Subprime auto lenders are loan sharks. The terms and interest rates are insane. Do not ever get a loan from them. You end up paying three times what the car is worth.
    Nature knows no indecencies; man invents them. ~ Mark Twain


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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by Melonie View Post
    ^^^ yes the two entries for the same debt are actually duplicate. However, you will have to point that fact out to the credit reporting agencies ... who will hopefully delete one of the entries without much protest.

    Yes every 'available' open line of credit not only potentially lowers your credit score, but also affects the worst case scenario debt to income ratio calculation performed by other prospective lenders. In your particular case, if the Jeweler 'credit card' account has say a $1000 available credit line, a 'prime' auto lender could factor in the possibility that you might max out that Jeweler credit line at any time and thus face an additional $50 ( or whatever ) monthly payment to the Jeweler against your total amount of 'verifiable' income. If that additional $50 a month payment to the Jeweler ( that doesn't really exist ) raises your combined debt to 'verifiable' income ratio above the loan approval threshold, the auto loan officer has no choice but to say no to your application !
    This is inaccurate. If a line of credit does not have a balence it can not be factored into the debt to income ratio at all. Long standing positive credit is a good thing. I often tell clients to leave open their oldest three credit cards. Anything more then three credit cards can be seen as a hinderance but is not factored into debt to income ratios if there is no standing balence.

    Do not close the card but do not use it either.
    Nature knows no indecencies; man invents them. ~ Mark Twain


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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by AudrinaN View Post
    Thank you ladies. ^
    ::looks in phone book for my local negotiator::

    You can do all this yourself. You do not need to pay someone else to do it for you. Most of these services are scams anyway.

    Pay to delete is pointless if the debt is too old to be on the report anyway.

    Btw
    I am a loan officer and deal with this daily.
    Nature knows no indecencies; man invents them. ~ Mark Twain


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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Quote Originally Posted by precise212 View Post
    I currently work as negotiator for the debt settlement company and have to confirm Melonie, Zofia and Christany's concerns and suggestions. First, collection agencies can lie. A lot. I always demand negotiated settlement letter for my clients in writing and further(very important!) to persuade collectors to state that my client "settled in full" versus "settled ". It's a big difference since future creditors will view you as potentially trustworthy rather than PARTIALLY SETTLED DEBTOR. It certainly affects your credit score more severely and for longer period of time than "settled in full" status.
    And yes, if they bug you about any debt, you should send them "Validation of Debt letter" which will buy you time since it obligates your creditors to do their lengthy homework that you actually spent this money, open this account, when, etc.
    Finally, never forget that collection agency is a third party debt collectors and they buy you debt from original creditors for pennies on a dollar. Based on amount you owe, they should not sue you, so get creative and tell them that you would love to settle your debt, but have a tough financial hardship...offer them 10%.
    You'll be shocked how flexible agency can get. A few phone calls later, you might get a different Collector Rep and they may offer to settle for 20-30% max. I do it all the time, "patience is a virtue"
    Good luck! And when it comes to unsecured debt(i am not talking about student loans, military cards, cars, home equity), try never owe any money to Discover, Chase or Amex. Those are the most vicious and instead of collection agencies most of the time will hire lawfirms and can sue over $700!
    Lenders are not stupid. Settled is Settled. Which always means the client did not pay the entire amount owed. Even if by some chance the raw score is increased underwriters will take into consideration the amounts were settled instead of paid.

    For example today I had a client who cosigned for a house for her son. Her son lost his job the house went into forclosure. This was six years ago. Her credit score was 774. Her dti was perfect. The loan was still turned down.
    Nature knows no indecencies; man invents them. ~ Mark Twain


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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    This is inaccurate. If a line of credit does not have a balence it can not be factored into the debt to income ratio at all
    Actually, under newly set policy by many major lenders, it CAN be factored into a worst case borrower 'stress test' debt to income ratio calculation by the would-be lender ... which is what I actually posted. Thus, for many 'prime' lenders these days, a would-be borrower with too much available credit ( long standing or not ) relative to income is not necessarily still a good thing. Of course, local credit unions and regional banks probably haven't quite gotten this 'paranoid' yet !

    I suppose this development is somewhat related to the increasing number of personal bankruptcies ... where a 'moral hazard' situation exists in regard to the soon to file bankruptcy person deciding to draw down available credit lines and 'go out in style' with no significant additional personal consequences. Or it may be related to an increasing tendency by some long-term unemployed to resort to running up their credit lines to meet unsustainably high costs of living in order to postpone bankruptcy / downsizing for as long as possible ( in the hope that they will find a new job equal to their lost job before they actually hit the wall ).

    Of course the lenders backing those credit lines are equally aware of this 'moral hazard' situation, and as a result are drastically lowering available credit limits when given the slightest excuse to do so ( in order to reduce their own exposure to bankruptcy related losses ). Try being one day late with a payment to Capital One or Citibank these days !!!

    ~
    Last edited by Melonie; 10-28-2010 at 05:50 PM.

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    [QUOTE=Vamp;2002662]You can do all this yourself. You do not need to pay someone else to do it for you. Most of these services are scams anyway.

    Agree, you , just by spending a little time and educating yourself on http://www.debtconsolidationcare.com/, etc. Plus, recent FTC rules severely restricted debt-settlement industry thanks to greed and deceptive marketing of SOME companies.
    Just wanted to point out that this "scam" keeps me employed, gives me Oxford health insurance and gives me a clear consciousness at night when i manage to save someone a lot of money by negotiating with his/her creditors and prevent clients' wage garnishment and judgments. It is a truly rewarding feeling.
    Yes, debt-settlement is definitely the last resort (unless you are ready to file a bankruptcy), but and with the proper business model things are done ethically.
    Some people simply need help in persuading department. And i LOVE to fight on their behalf.
    And yes, Melonie is correct about C1(Capital One) about trying to be late for one day! They sue right and left and when i finally get settled with them, i usually joke with client that every time he watches that C1 commercial "What's in your wallet?" he should remember my 11 attempts to settle with them before it got gone!

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    Thanks guys. Well, I feel dumb about eenie meenie minie moing between the two (creditor and agency) and choosing which one to dispute be removed. I chose Navy Fed --creditor, personal loan). Guess they will laugh at that one!

    I also called about this card for JB Robinson credit card thats on my report. They have no such record of my account there...so I was all ready to dispute it and get it off my credit report. But then when I look more closely, this account is in good standing, and is closed. So that doesnt affect my debt to income does it? I will just leave it alone, since it gives me one more GREEN check mark on my report, rather than that ugly X and since its closed, I wouldnt use it. Dont need to anyways. So leave it there? Or dispute?

    You ladies are so helpful, thank you all so much! x

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    Default Re: Credit REPORT help...

    this account is in good standing, and is closed. So that doesnt affect my debt to income does it? I will just leave it alone, since it gives me one more GREEN check mark on my report, rather than that ugly X and since its closed, I wouldnt use it. Dont need to anyways. So leave it there? Or dispute
    If the account is closed then there isn't any available credit ... only a positive record of payments.

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