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    Crossfingers cold car starting tips

    Sooo..currently minus 4 or what'ev here..Vortex's been hitting us since Tues & before..
    getting down to -22 tonight!
    My car's been starting, up til yesterday. It cranked but didn't turn over..I left it alone today.
    I called my mechanic & he said to try it tomorrow, which I will, but when it warms up to 20 lol. Supposed to be in 40's starting this Sat.
    Any hints/tips/tricks? I do have triple A motor club, Im sure they're beyond swamped.
    It sits outside tho.

    True story: I knew a WI guy, he had his car in a heated garage, w/charger all night, & still didn't start. Late mode car btw.

    THANKS!
    Last edited by whirlerz; 01-31-2019 at 01:41 PM.


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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Maybe try jump starting it. Do you know how old your car battery is?

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    I wonder if your fuel is gelled? It tends to be more of an issue with diesel fuel, but at temperatures like what I've been seeing in the news, it's going to affect gasoline, as well. So fuel starvation might be an issue. I grew up on a farm in Wisconsin, and vehicles were kept inside during the Winter months for this an other reasons. If there was a reason they couldn't be kept inside, we at least kept the block heaters plugged in.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by eagle2 View Post
    Maybe try jump starting it. Do you know how old your car battery is?
    yeah...if you have an older(not fully charged) battery, that is most likely the culprit. I'm in the chicago area also....it was -22 when i went out to my car at 8AM..they both started up fine, just took a little longer to warm up. Both relatively new batteries.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    1. Engine block heater
    2. Move to Brownsville, Texas.

    If you have moisture in your gas it can freeze. Get fuel antifreeze.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by slowpoke View Post
    1. Engine block heater
    They can help, but if the car's not starting at all, it won't solve that problem. Most block heaters only have one element which goes to the water jacket and keeps the coolant in it warm. Some have a second element which goes to the oil pan, but I've only ever seen that one medium-/heavy duty applications.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    OK..

    Lemi, GREAT to see you on here, haven't for a loooong time!

    I do have gas antifreeze, a (nearly full tank)

    My car's an '04 I believe, battery's gettin' up there, altho mechanic said it was fine, but sure I get that.
    I recently has a starter motor replaced, spark plugs/wires I believe & I forget what all else.
    My one neighbor has an old ass looking Dodge, he starts right up tho
    I recently gave someone a jumpstart, can that affect it?

    Not moving anytime soon, not in this weather!
    If it doesn't start by Sat, it's getting towed to the shop, perhaps tomorrow even.

    Thanks a lot, all.


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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by whirlerz View Post
    battery's gettin' up there, altho mechanic said it was fine, but sure I get that.
    Testing batteries isn't the most reliable thing. Load testers tend to be kinda iffy, and people who specialize in that sort of thing are generally distrustful of them. One thing I do ensure is that I don't buy non-serviceable batteries - I get the ones you can top off the water in. Which, the water level is supposed to be topped off and the battery charged before you test it, and how can you do that with a maintenance free battery? You can't.

    I recently gave someone a jumpstart, can that affect it?
    Yes, especially in newer cars, which have multiple computers (nodes) for different systems. It is possible to hook those cables incorrectly and fry them. However, if you do have that problem, it's going to show itself sooner rather than later. As in, immediately.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Agree with above. It could be a combo of things like alternator, battery, and more. But from what you describe it Sounds like the battery is dead and extreme temps especially cold this happens.

    Call up triple A to jump start it ... at least that will a) let you know if it’s the battery b) if it starts cause battery is drained and now has a boost, you can drive it yourself it a mechanic who can replace the battery b) if it does not start from having a jump start then you’ll know it’s something else and you can have it towed from there.

    yes if you gave someone a jumpstart from your dying battery you probably drained your own battery completely.

    If you feel compelled to help someone, or yourself, buy one of those portable jumpstart batteries. The tow companies I’ve dealt with in the past use them now so you don’t have to sacrifice your own car battery

    Also, car batteries only last a few years before they need to be replaced anyway.
    Last edited by miss.a.p1600; 01-31-2019 at 11:57 PM.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    All good tips, didn't see the farmer's trick of a squirt of starter fluid into the intake, more volatile than gas, if it runs for a few seconds that also confirms it is a fuel issue.
    But yeah, warm it up - a battery charger will top up the battery, keep it warm (trickle charge it after it is topped off.

    I just had an interesting convo with the dude at Batteries Plus about battery longevity, he said new batteries made from recycled lead don't last as long, that the ones with longer warranties are made with new lead. Changes are made at the molecular level and not 'reset' during recycling. Not sure if true of they just charge more for the longer warrantied ones, LOL
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Take the battery and have it tested. if its bad get a new one and put it in.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Yea.
    It's 8 rn, feels like spring after the previous temps.
    So far I haven't tried it, I probably will after my coffee
    I don't have starter fluid, it's on the list
    &. yea bout the battery

    Update: yay, it started!!!
    Happy happy! thanks!


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    JDD

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Congratulations!

    Now drive it south.

    https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Chic...7!2d26.1118401

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by CFMNH44 View Post
    All good tips, didn't see the farmer's trick of a squirt of starter fluid into the intake, more volatile than gas, if it runs for a few seconds that also confirms it is a fuel issue.
    You should’ve said “old farmers trick”, because vehicles today - especially with diesels - are apt to having inlet air heaters, which can ignite ether prematurely.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    That would be interesting.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by AChildOfBoredom View Post
    You should’ve said “old farmers trick”, because vehicles today - especially with diesels - are apt to having inlet air heaters, which can ignite ether prematurely.
    Ha! Now that would really warm up the vehicle... Yeah, I presumed she wasn't driving a diesel, but there are more and more of them...

    Looks like there is one made for diesels, also some with lube to prevent starting damage:

    https://www.carbibles.com/engine-starting-fluid/
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by whirlerz View Post
    Sooo..currently minus 4 or what'ev here..Vortex's been hitting us since Tues & before..
    getting down to -22 tonight!
    My car's been starting, up til yesterday. It cranked but didn't turn over..I left it alone today.
    I called my mechanic & he said to try it tomorrow, which I will, but when it warms up to 20 lol. Supposed to be in 40's starting this Sat.
    Any hints/tips/tricks? I do have triple A motor club, Im sure they're beyond swamped.
    It sits outside tho.

    True story: I knew a WI guy, he had his car in a heated garage, w/charger all night, & still didn't start. Late mode car btw.

    THANKS!
    If it cranks slow/weak but no start it's generally the battery as in the battery is going dead. If it cranks over strong but no start then it's a fuel or ignition problem. Your car was running fine up into the cold so it most likely is the battery.

    The cold weather is HARD on batteries and that's actually how they rate them, by cold cranking amps (CCA). A car battery should be replaced every 3 years or replaced when the battery is run dead from accidentally leaving the lights on.

    Interstate battery is a very good brand battery but if you're on a budget just go to Walmart. If you go to Walmart look at the dates on the battery and buy the newest battery on the shelf or no older then 6 months.

    Personally I have a 650 CCA Walmart battery but later I plan to upgrade to a 1070 CCA XS Power battery which is actually overkill..lol

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by CFMNH44 View Post
    Ha! Now that would really warm up the vehicle... Yeah, I presumed she wasn't driving a diesel, but there are more and more of them...

    Looks like there is one made for diesels, also some with lube to prevent starting damage:

    https://www.carbibles.com/engine-starting-fluid/
    I didn't think hers was either, especially being a 2004. It's just that diesels are more apt to having inlet air heaters, though I've seen gasoline powered vehicles with them, as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luckyguy09 View Post
    If it cranks slow/weak but no start it's generally the battery as in the battery is going dead. If it cranks over strong but no start then it's a fuel or ignition problem. Your car was running fine up into the cold so it most likely is the battery.

    The cold weather is HARD on batteries and that's actually how they rate them, by cold cranking amps (CCA). A car battery should be replaced every 3 years or replaced when the battery is run dead from accidentally leaving the lights on.

    Interstate battery is a very good brand battery but if you're on a budget just go to Walmart. If you go to Walmart look at the dates on the battery and buy the newest battery on the shelf or no older then 6 months.

    Personally I have a 650 CCA Walmart battery but later I plan to upgrade to a 1070 CCA XS Power battery which is actually overkill..lol
    You gotta be mindful that CCA is measured specifically at zero degrees. Me, I'm in North Carolina, so I'm not so fussed by CCA as I would be if I still lived in Wisconsin. I'll typically look at the CA rating, and the disparity between that and the CCA rating. It doesn't get that cold here with any regularity.

    If you've got a pretty fresh battery and drain it on account of leaving the headlights on, I wouldn't replace it unless you had recurring problems immediately afterwards. Draining a battery all the way down or close to it then recharging it is what's known as deep cycling, and most car batteries aren't made for that. Marine batteries, golf cart batteries - they tend to be. Yes, it's bad for the battery, but not necessarily an instant battery killer. It does cause a lot of the water in the battery to be used up, and that will ultimately shorten the battery life. Which again is why I don't buy maintenance free batteries, and I top off the water on a pretty regular basis. You can use any distilled water I'm told, but I get the stuff from Fastenal which is for just that purpose.

    Of course, you can go have a jump start protocol done afterwards if you're unsure, but that involves load testing the battery, checking voltage and amperage from the alternator, and doing a parasitic draw test. Which, if you know why the battery went dead, you're not going to pay to have all that done. If you go to an auto parts store, Batteries Plus, whatever, they'll hook a handheld tester to it (which may be as simple as the AC Delco tester with the coils, or as complex as the GR systems) and it's almost always cast in stone they'll return a bad reading. If you have threaded top post studs (such as with Group 31 batteries), you're supposed to put lead covers on them in order to ensure a good contact, and these places won't do this. Also, they test it at whatever state of charge it's at, even though the batteries are supposed to be fully charged whenever a load test is done. So they get a 'fail' reading on the handheld tester, and call it bad at that. In reality, you're supposed to move up to a full service tester, such as a Snap-On D-tac or a GR-8 tester - and perform the test with that, because those will trickle charge the battery to top it off and test it under those conditions. Supposedly, they're supposed to be so much more accurate than using a digital multimeter. DMM always seems to have worked for me so far, though if I have time to kill at work, I'll hook up the D-tac to it.

    My last two cars had a means to hook a quick coupler for a fuel gauge into... looks pretty much like a schrader valve for a tire. Some of the shade tree sorts will just depress it with a screwdriver to see if they're getting fuel pressure, but I really don't like this method for a couple of reasons, one of which is engine surfaces get hot, gasoline has much lower flash point than diesel, and you're not actually measuring what the pressure is that way. And now I realize I don't know if the Cruze I'm driving now has such a quick coupling or not. If not, they probably rely on a sensor and you'd have to hook a scan tool to it to see what the fuel pressure reading is, but of course those ones you buy at Auto Zone won't do it. Fortunately, I can always use the Snap-On Verus they have at work. With a $10,000 price tag and $1,200 for each update, I'm sure as hell not buying one on my own.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Additional pro-tip- if you get a bloc heater find a way to secure/clip up/tape up the plug in cord. Mine got sheared off somehow, which pisses me off but luckily I can garage my car so I don't have to use the bloc heater.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by AChildOfBoredom View Post
    I didn't think hers was either, especially being a 2004. It's just that diesels are more apt to having inlet air heaters, though I've seen gasoline powered vehicles with them, as well.



    You gotta be mindful that CCA is measured specifically at zero degrees. Me, I'm in North Carolina, so I'm not so fussed by CCA as I would be if I still lived in Wisconsin. I'll typically look at the CA rating, and the disparity between that and the CCA rating. It doesn't get that cold here with any regularity.

    If you've got a pretty fresh battery and drain it on account of leaving the headlights on, I wouldn't replace it unless you had recurring problems immediately afterwards. Draining a battery all the way down or close to it then recharging it is what's known as deep cycling, and most car batteries aren't made for that. Marine batteries, golf cart batteries - they tend to be. Yes, it's bad for the battery, but not necessarily an instant battery killer. It does cause a lot of the water in the battery to be used up, and that will ultimately shorten the battery life. Which again is why I don't buy maintenance free batteries, and I top off the water on a pretty regular basis. You can use any distilled water I'm told, but I get the stuff from Fastenal which is for just that purpose.

    Of course, you can go have a jump start protocol done afterwards if you're unsure, but that involves load testing the battery, checking voltage and amperage from the alternator, and doing a parasitic draw test. Which, if you know why the battery went dead, you're not going to pay to have all that done. If you go to an auto parts store, Batteries Plus, whatever, they'll hook a handheld tester to it (which may be as simple as the AC Delco tester with the coils, or as complex as the GR systems) and it's almost always cast in stone they'll return a bad reading. If you have threaded top post studs (such as with Group 31 batteries), you're supposed to put lead covers on them in order to ensure a good contact, and these places won't do this. Also, they test it at whatever state of charge it's at, even though the batteries are supposed to be fully charged whenever a load test is done. So they get a 'fail' reading on the handheld tester, and call it bad at that. In reality, you're supposed to move up to a full service tester, such as a Snap-On D-tac or a GR-8 tester - and perform the test with that, because those will trickle charge the battery to top it off and test it under those conditions. Supposedly, they're supposed to be so much more accurate than using a digital multimeter. DMM always seems to have worked for me so far, though if I have time to kill at work, I'll hook up the D-tac to it.

    My last two cars had a means to hook a quick coupler for a fuel gauge into... looks pretty much like a schrader valve for a tire. Some of the shade tree sorts will just depress it with a screwdriver to see if they're getting fuel pressure, but I really don't like this method for a couple of reasons, one of which is engine surfaces get hot, gasoline has much lower flash point than diesel, and you're not actually measuring what the pressure is that way. And now I realize I don't know if the Cruze I'm driving now has such a quick coupling or not. If not, they probably rely on a sensor and you'd have to hook a scan tool to it to see what the fuel pressure reading is, but of course those ones you buy at Auto Zone won't do it. Fortunately, I can always use the Snap-On Verus they have at work. With a $10,000 price tag and $1,200 for each update, I'm sure as hell not buying one on my own.
    You know your way around a car that's for sure! We would get along great..lol

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Luckyguy09 View Post
    You know your way around a car that's for sure! We would get along great..lol
    Depends on how many shitty puns you can endure. You haven't yet seen just how much of a dork I can be.
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    Duh Re: cold car starting tips

    Wow y'all are so awesome!

    Lol. I now have part of a wooden toothpick stuck in the (driver's side) door keyhole.
    Yes, I know.
    Lock were frozen (@ the time, not now).
    So, I used de-icer spray, & to make sure it got into the keyhole, I used the pick (the de-icer didn't have the plastic straw).
    As a result, now I can't use the key (or the automatic door opener fob) to get in driver's side.
    I've been working on it.
    I got de-icer w/straw, I googled it, & I've been (carefully) putting smaller keys objects etc to work it out

    I can ask @ the lock smith if they'll help, or my mechanic
    Last edited by whirlerz; 02-03-2019 at 11:58 AM.


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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    I always used a small butane torch is Weescahsahn whenever I had to deal with that issue (usually a farm hand locked the doors, because we never did ourselves unless we went into town), then some WD40 or PB Blaster sprayed into the lock tumbler afterwards.
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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by CFMNH44 View Post
    I just had an interesting convo with the dude at Batteries Plus about battery longevity, he said new batteries made from recycled lead don't last as long, that the ones with longer warranties are made with new lead. Changes are made at the molecular level and not 'reset' during recycling. Not sure if true of they just charge more for the longer warrantied ones, LOL
    This is very helpful info.

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    Default Re: cold car starting tips

    Quote Originally Posted by AChildOfBoredom View Post
    I always used a small butane torch is Weescahsahn whenever I had to deal with that issue (usually a farm hand locked the doors, because we never did ourselves unless we went into town), then some WD40 or PB Blaster sprayed into the lock tumbler afterwards.
    All good tips! In a pinch many household items and a lighter can become a torch. Pretty sure I used lemon Pledge furniture polish to heat a frozen lock once. ;-)
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